Topic: Runway

How to create next seasons looks now – Back Stage with Bobbi Brown

How to create next seasons looks now -Back Stage with Bobbi Brown at LFW

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During the whirlwind that is London Fashion Week I took the chance to go backstage with Bobbi Brown, to give you an insider’s look into the hottest beauty trends for AW13. There is no need to wait until next season to try these out though, as the two statement make-up looks are perfect for summer too. Taking influence from the swinging 60s lead artist Florrie White created a sultry Brigitte Bardot style look for the Orla Kiely show. Toned down to keep it fresh and easy to wear to the office a smoky chocolate brown eye was smudged on. Blush was kept to a light sweep of pink and lips a subtle shimmer of golden beige. With a messy bun this is a perfect daytime look, just let down your hair and add a shimmer eye shadow and slick of eye liner to take the look to after dark.

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In contrast for the Jena.Theo show lead artist Kim Brown opted for a modern grunge look. Gorgeous dewy skin was created with lots of moisture, blush kept neutral and a soft mid-brown eye shadow to keep the focus on the statement lip. A vibrant pop of colour in matt acid orange made the look oh so modern. Defined brows, reminiscent of model of the moment Cara Delavigne, gave a youthful feel.

Backstage Jena (3)

If you fancy trying out either of these looks the friendly make-up artists at Bobbi Brown counter will be keen to show you how. If you want to try it yourself the Orla Kiely look is easy to recreate all you need is a soft, eye shadow crayon which you can smudge on Bobbi Brown Cream Shadow Stick in ‘Bark’ was the backstage favourite, then add lashings of mascara. For the Jena.Theo look keep everything simple so you can create a statement with a bold orange lip, try Bobbi Brown Creamy Matt lipstick in ‘Jenna’ as used for the show. Above you can see the gorgeous Irene from Bobbi Brown rocking a pink tipped Tux-mani using two of the new Bobbi Brown summer shades. This is such an easy look to recreate with any colours, but looks super sleek.

LFW AW13: Vivienne Westwood Red Label

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Climate Revolution is the only means towards a sound economy. When the general public massively switches on to this fact we will win.

What’s good for the planet is good for the economy.

It seems rather trivial to go on to talk about clothes when  the message Vivienne is trying so hard to get across is one of utmost importance. I have spoken before about the Climate Revolution, not wanting to repeat myself I will just mention the new part of the Climate Revolution Charter Vivienne handed out on the show notes. She used an emblem of two snakes eating each other to represent ‘climate’ and ‘economy’ and how they go hand in hand. Pointing out how our economic system is run for profit and causes huge waste.

Even though the Red Label collection is quite far removed from the outlandish designs Westwood is know for, we can await the Gold Label show in Paris for that, it has design sensibilities of its own. Red Label is now a go-to for the working woman, perfectly tailored suits, easy to wear figure perfecting dresses, prim cardigans. This ethos was echoed by the final model storming down the runway with a clipboard in hand. Was she busy at work, or busy saving the planet? There is no denying these are beautiful clothes, with tailoring quirks characteristic of Westwood which can be dressed up or down as the wearer may choose. The choice for the show, owing to tradition, was to push the boundaries in the hair and make-up departments. The model’s appeared like a Lichtenstien graphic, all bouffant hair and vivid coloured make up, the lines of the face broken up and played around with. There were no forlorn tears over hapless boyfriends from these girls however. Westwood’s girl is always a fighter, forever imbuing the punk spirit as the Dame does herself, taking her walk wearing the t-shirt she designed in support of Julian Assange.

The show opened with a rugby striped midi-length coat in cobalt and maroon, thigh socks to match of course. The tiger stripe was key to the collection, tying together everything from cocoon jackets to a statement metallic dress with layers and layers of tulle underskirt. The pallet was shades of blue and red highlighted with baby pink and shimmering pewter. The influence of the new Red Label design team (Vivienne herself does not design the collection, rather her team takes inspiration from previous works) which was first seen in SS13 is still evident. As with the previous season there are pieces which don’t quite fit with the usual Westwood aesthetic – the loose fitting sequin top, with a vintage 80s feel stands out, however I think they are settling in well. The tailoring of the jackets with the silver orb buttons is a nice touch from the archives whilst the iridescent beetle leather jacket stole the show. Also new to the Westwood team are the shoe makers Peron, replacing Meg as of SS13. I have been divided about how I feel for the loss of Meg, having created many classic designs for Westwood but also fixating of late on the virtually unwearable ‘Skyscraper’ heel – detrimental to sales I am sure. Peron delved back into the shoe archive for SS13 restyling classic boot designs from the SEX years wavy top with kitten heel and taking the Prostitute shoe to new hights- literally, there was a style to suit all tastes. This season the Strobe shoe was back, a large ‘tongue’ licking over the shoe vamp with a cone heel. The Melissa shoes were featured again, this season in transparent and pale pink with oversized chain-style ankle cuffs.

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LFW AW13: Day 3

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It’s P’Trique!!!!! The best celeb I’ve spotted all Fashion Week, alas the pap’s were more excited over a member of One Direction. On the plus side it gave me some space to go snap P’Trique and tell him how much I love the YouTube Videos such as Sh*t Fashion Girls Say.

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Fashion Scout Ones to Watch was technically yesterday but that post was already massive! Yeashin really hit my fashion spot with a spectacular collection featuring folkloric knitwear.

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I went backstage at Fashion Scout with Sharon Ashton to see the amazing nails she created for the Dans la Vie show. The look was long talons in black and nude to compliment the dark smokey eye and sculpted cheeks.

Street Style

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What Pearl Wore

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 Today I wore a bit of a mixed up outfit, due to the whole random weather issue and a mix up with a dress I’d ordered I didn’t really have anything to wear especially for the Westwood show so threw this lot on, all Vivienne Westwood like you needed to ask! I have also been wearing my Comic Relief t-shirts but it’s been a bit too chilly to show them off, must remember to get a shot.

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Fashion Pearls of Wisdom + TK Maxx for LFW

LW AW13: Day 2

The Shows

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Antipodium

The most incredible colours and textures, next season it will be velvet boots with everything!

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Dans la Vie

The prints, the prints always the most incredible prints! This season was no different with a serpent feel.

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Orla Kiely

I joined the Bobbi Brown team backstage again, huge thanks to Irene, today at Orla Kiely. The look was a chic but laid back Bardot, smokey eye and subtle shimmer lip.

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The show it’s self had a sexy-secretary cheeky nudge to it, one thing Kiely never fails to offer is a beautifully thought out show set. She put the girls to work 9-5, although in the most stylishly dressed office I have ever seen!

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Bolzoni & Walsh

Tough biker girls, smouldering insouciantly in velvet and leathers, luxury basics at their best.

Street Style

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A beautiful array of pretty prints and bold colours, enjoy!

What Pearl Wore

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Keeping with the knitwear theme I wore Vivienne Westwood again, I also had these beautiful vintage sunglasses from TK Maxx for when the sun decided to put in an appearance! I was wearing my Comic Relief t-shirt although it was a bit to chilly to show it off.

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Fashion Pearls of Wisdom + TK Maxx for LFW

Urban Commuter: Vivienne Westwood MAN SS13

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Should almost any other designer quote ‘urban commuter’ as a reference for their latest collection, I am sure you would join me in an eye roll. I mean, could you imagine Donatella Versace or Tom Form on the tube? Of course not, however always true to her words Dame Vivienne Westwood can regularly be seen hopping on and off the tube, that’s when she isn’t riding her bicycle (usually in sky high shoes). An introduction to the collection was presented at Harrods – in the loading bay, with sculptures made from urban waste. the aim to inspire people to join her Climate Revolution.

“The revolutionary sculptures made from recycled metal and found objects that are featured within the installation were created by London born artist Joe Rush. The main structure, is entitled ‘Rustang Sally’ and was built by both Joe and artist Alex Wreckage to journey across the Black Rock Desert in Nevada, USA. It was created entirely from disregarded Cadillacs and re-cycled Chevrolet parts.

Both Vivienne Westwood and artist Joe Rush share a common culture and interest in defending the planet- so joined together their talent, their indignations and their combativeness in an artistic and political process.”

The clothes reflected the theme well, with a real street wear edge. Hoodies with visors, drop crotch trousers pair with high-tops, abstract leopard print knits and my personal favourite the plus-fours in coloured houndstooth. Reflective strips were use, a design quirk seen on her AW12 Gold Label suiting and presumably practical for riding your bike whilst looking stylish. For the more classic gent trademark tartan suits were present in lush plum tartan, as were soft wool tailored over coats.

The full collection will be show in Milan, 13th January.

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(Images courtesy Vivienne Westwood)

25 Years of Antoni & Alison (SS13)

Antoni & Alison SS13 ‘New Work’

How do you celebrate 25 years in fashion? Hire a marching brass band perhaps? Well that is exactly what design duo Antoni Burakowski and Alison Roberts did to launch their SS13 collection, marking their 25th year designing together. Rather than looking back they announced they would be looking forward with this collection of characteristic collage prints and dress. Every print was created by hand using traditional paints, spray cans, felt tip, charcoal and glitter – no computers here. The pair have a quirky, tongue in cheek humour and their press releases always a joy to read. They state they also used ‘necessary sparkle and gold leaf’ and ‘we also used every colour we own’. The prints ruled dictating the shapes, sometimes the shapes were altered better to fit the patterns. Other areas were blacked out where colour was not required. The result, some of their most striking prints and lust worthy dresses to date.

The fabulous Marching Band

Beauty up close, created by Jo Frost for MAC

See more from the show in my Facebook Album

Modern Queen – Bora Aksu SS13

Bora Aksu SS13

‘Modern Queen’

‘For every woman born a princess, destined to become a Queen’. It was evident from the glorious crochet wool crowns that there was a regal undertone to Bora Aksu’s SS13 collection. The designer quotes Marie,Queen of Romania as inspiration for the collection. Her love of Art Deco, botanical gardens and her racy love life. Marie had many admires, she was a beautiful and powerful woman. Such qualities were reflected in the collection, the pale blues, soft greys and fresh whites create romance whilst the mustards golds and corals pack a vibrant punch. Creeping vines in Art Deco shapes add intrigue and depth. To say this was a beautiful collection is an understatement.

Portraits of the original Queen Marie (source 1,2)

For more information about the designer and to shop the collections – Bora Aksu.com

Who Needs Botox? – Fam Irvoll SS13

Fam Irvoll SS13

‘No thank you, Mr Botox’

A group of old ladies, hunched up and shuffling, greet each other with a hug and shuffle off down the run way. The music changes and the Grannies jump into dance to Right Said Fred’s ‘I’m too Sexy’! The cakes, wool balls, knitting needles, pearls, bows, hearts, poodles and cats are all things designer Fam Irvoll brought together to create the perfect, dream world Grandmother. Irvoll famously draws on childhood memories and themes for her collection and this one was no different, a real candyfloss and tea, pastel sweet celebration of the charming old lady. The collection was far from twee with body-con mini skirts adding a glamourous edge and fitted tailoring keeping the silhouette sleek. Frothy dresses in candy colours, adorned with huge corsages would be equally welcome for day or night. The was a deinitively 1950′s undertone to the shapes used. The whimsical shoes, were moccasins given a thick flatform sole and googly eyes, ears and a nose to create cute poodles. Tony & Guy created elegant bouffants amongst the eccentric wigs. Nails by Sharon Ashton were an elegant matt red and pink with 3D baby-blue bows. Echoing the make-up by Jo Sugar for The BodyShop, a pale blue eye with wing-tip liner and a pastel pink or orange-red lip.

You can see the show video at Fam Irvoll.com and see more show images in my FaceBook Album.

Backstage the matt nails with tiny blue bows, image courtesy of Sharon Ashton, @Sharon1nails

The Green House Effect – Corrie Nielsen SS13

Corrie Nielsen SS13 – Florilegium

Botanical, floral, super nature. Nielsen drew inspiration from The Royal Botanic Gardens, flowers, plants, seeds and the original work of Charles Darwin. Whereas most would interpret such as prints, the designer instead created shapes. Tulip skirt, mushroom blouse and striking frond covered green-house peplum. The cocoon coats were especially noteworthy, both enveloping and restrictive in an elegant manner. It was about creating shapes and structure as much as enhancing the natural womanly form. The colour palette was a delecate offering of shell, pink, peach and soft grey with rich green and a touch of black, dip dying added extra dept.  Make-up was a dusting of red-pink across the entire eye area. The hair as sculptural as the head pieces created by Emma Yeo, a combination of back combed frothiness and slicked back sleek. For what appears at first glance to be a highly stylised collection, strip it back to single garments and you will find many wearable pieces. The voluminous organza dresses fabulous evening attire, perhaps a red carpet or two; skirts, jackets and coats instant luxe additions to any wardrobe.

The ‘Green-House’ dress

Head wear by Emma Yeo

You can see more of the collection in my Facebook Album

Corrie Nielsen.com